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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.